PATTERN DRAFTING BY HEIGHT

body proportionsThis pattern design method can be used to determine drafting measurements from a given figure height combined with girth measurements for the chest, waist and hips. Knowing the person’s height allows for formulations of various lengths based on the Golden Mean and combined with established size parameters, a trouser or torso pattern can be drafted for an average human body.

H = full length of body; also the span of laterally outstretched arms, measured from finger-tip to finger-tip, is equal to the height of the body.

1/2 H = upper part of body (torso) or lower part of body (legs)

1/4 H = length of leg from ankle to knee and length from chin to navel

1/6 H = length of foot and length of forearm (measured from elbow to wrist)

1/8 H = length of head from crown to bottom of chin

1/10 H = height of face; also length of hand

Drafting By Height: Trousers (based on 8 heads per figure)

The theory based upon the Golden Mean can be used to determine drafting measurements from a given figure height of an average or off-proportioned body. You need the following measurements to draft a trouser pattern: height, waist and hips. The scale is one head equals 1/8 of the total height.

Example:

for a person who is 5 feet 8 inches tall, one head length is 8 ½”

5′ 8″ = 68″ 68″/8 = 8.5″

Rise is 1 head plus 1″ ease plus width of the waistband

eg. rise = 1/8 height + ease + waistband width

Inseam is 4 heads minus Y (amount taken off for width of trouser cuffs)

eg. inseam = 1/2 height – Y

Outseam is inseam plus rise, or

5 heads plus ease minus Y plus waistband width

eg. outseam = 5/8 height + ease – Y + waistband width

Example:

Given a height of 5 feet, 8 inches, trouser cuff width of 18″ and a waistband 1-1/2″ wide, then:

rise = 68/8 + 1 + 1.5 = 11

inseam = 68/8 – 2.5 = 31.5

outseam = 5/8 x 68 + 1 – 2.5 + 1.5 = 42.5

Table for Leg Reduction (Y amount)

for bottom width

take off Y amount *

24″

1″

23″

1.25″

22″

1.5″

21″

1.75″

20″

2″

19″

2.25″

18″

2.5″

* for shaped trouser cuffs, use less Y amount (0.5″ to 0.75″)

pant draftTrouser draft:

square both ways at 0.

0-1 = body rise + 3/8″ [1cm]; square across

0-2 = waist to hip; square across. (approx. 8-9″ [20-23 cm]).

0-3 = outseam; square across

1-4 = midway between 1-3 minus 2″ [5 cm]; square across.

1-5 = 1/12 hip mmt. + 5/8″ [18 mm]; square up to locate points 6 and 7.

6-8 = ¼ hip mmt. + 3/8″ [10 mm]

5-9 = 1/16 hip mmt. + 3/8″ [10mm]

7-10 = 3/8″ [10mm] squared across and 3/8″ [10 mm] squared down

Join 10-6 with straight line and join 6-9 with a curve line as shown.

This is the centerfront crutch seam.

Square up and down from point 8.

10-11 = ¼ waist mmt. + 3/8″ [10mm] (note: point 11 will “sit” on line 7.)


12 is located at intersection of 3 and 8.

13 is located at intersection of 4 and 8.

Square down from 5 to locate 14 and 15

5-16 = 1/2 mmt of line 5-9

6-17 = ¼ mmt of line 5-9

7-18 = 3/8″ [10mm]; join 17-18 and extend as a tangent line

19-20 = ¼ waist mmt. + 3/8″ [10 mm], taken at a 90 degree angle from tangent line so that line 19-20 touches the line 7-11. (Note: point 19 will be located on the right angle and the constructed line may not touch at point 11 as shown.)

9-21 = ½ mmt. of 5-9

Join 17-21 with curved line as shown

3-22 = 1/4 trouser cuff width minus 1/4″ [6 mm]

23 is located on kneeline.

3-24 = ¼ trouser cuff width minus 1/4″ [6 mm]

4-25 = 4-23

Join 24-25 with a straight line and 25-9 with a curved line as shown.

24-26 = 3/4″ [20 mm]

25-27 = 3/4″ [20mm]

Join 26-27 with a straight line and 27-21 with a parallel curved line as shown.

5-28 = ¼ hip mmt. + 1/4″ [6 mm]

Join 22-23-28-8 and gently curve into 20 to draw outseam leg seam.

This is an easy fit type trouser pattern. Trace off front and back patterns. If you desire extra ease (seat angle) in crutch of trouser’s back portion, cut along back hipline and open a wedge about 1-1/2″ [40 mm] wide at CB to nil at side seam. Redraw centerback seam.

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