for more info follow the infobox on the side of the video.
If you want to see more got to: http://youtube.com/sonyalook
I have a new youtube dedicated to make-up and tips. This was my first shot with a bad camera, it will get better, I promise.
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The Mooncup is a reusable menstrual cup around two inches long and made from soft silicone rubber. It is worn internally like a tampon but collects menstrual fluid rather than absorbing. Unlike tampons the Mooncup is not a disposable product, so you only need to buy one.
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The Mooncup will hold 30ml of fluid, which is roughly one third of the average total produced each period. A light seal is formed with your vaginal walls allowing your menstrual fluid to pass into the Mooncup without leakage or odour. You will probably find that you need to empty your Mooncup less frequently than you currently replace towels or tampons.
The Mooncup menstrual cup contains no bleaches, deodorisers or absorbency gels. It does not interfere with your healthy vaginal environment, nor has it been associated with toxic shock syndrome. The smooth surface of the Mooncup allows the mucus membranes of your vaginal wall to continue their essential cleansing and protective functions. The Mooncup does not absorb your body’s natural defence mechanisms and will not deposit fibres in your vaginal wall.
The Mooncup will not cause irritation and is suitable for women with sensitive skin, thrush, eczema or allergy. For your safety the Mooncup is made from a special medical grade non-allergic silicone. Silicone is derived from silica which is one of the most abundant minerals on earth. The Mooncup is manufactured in the UK. The Mooncup can be cleaned in the same way as baby equipment: with sterilising fluid, or by boiling for five minutes in an open pan of water. Unlike pads and tampons the Mooncup menstrual cup is reusable, eliminating the need to carry bulky spares. With proper care your Mooncup will last for several years. Imagine the towels and tampons that you will be disposing of in landfill sites during those years!
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Many people now know about composting toilets, particularly those in the alternative movement who are quite familiar with composting in their gardens, and who understand the advantages of recycling and simplification of our needs.
But to the many others who have not really thought about where their sewage goes after flushing, the thought of composting their own waste is a little uncomfortable.
Objectionable questions are fired at you when you first introduce the concept to someone, and many persons leave the subject still thinking that a composting toilets is a old pit (outhouse) toilet, remembered unpleasantly from camping trips.
Well, composting toilets are far from being pit toilets! They range from simple twin chamber designs through to advanced systems with rotating tynes, temperature and moisture probes and electronic control systems.
They are effective biological converters of human and household “waste,” saving money and energy for the person and community. They start the regeneration of the Earth’s precious environment that is long overdue.
In UK there are various retailers as well:
http://www.therenewableenergycentre.co.uk/
http://www.natsol.co.uk/
Anti- inflammatory and antiseptic gel. Used topically over a period of weeks it should alleviate the appearance and discomfort.
Marigold, Lavender and Rose Geranium Gel
10 rose geranium flowers, with leaves and stems
8 marigold flowers
20 lavender flower heads
200 ml water
1 sachet of vegetable gelatine
5 tsp vodka
20 drops tea tree oil
1) roughly chop the flowers, leaves and stems of the geranium and place with the marigold flowers and lavender heads in a large bowl
2) bring the water to the boil and por it over the flowers to make an infusion.
leave to infuse for 10 minutes.
Place the infusion, including the plant material into a blender and whiz.
Strain the mixture into a clean bowl
3) In another bowl dissolve the gelatine in 2 tbsp cold water.
Gradually add the flower infusion, stirring to separate lumps.
Add the vodka and tea tree oil, stirring until a gel is formed.
using a funnel poer into a pot with a pump dispenser.
USE:
Apply to affected area 2x a day
STORAGE:
Keeps in fridge for up to 6 weeks
In these days it is a good idea to look back to our past and start making our own remedies again. That way we are in charge of what goes in. Apart from that it is educational and environmentally friendly.
So this will be a first of an on going series where I will share some of my Remedies for the more common use.
Please be aware, that they are not actual medicines, they are part of a more holistic approach to well being. So if you are ill, please go see the Doctor.
FOR SORE EYES – Cucumber Eye Gel (to soothe sore or swollen eyes)
1 small cucumber, chopped
200ml Aloe Gel or 50ml Aloe Activator or 3 tablespoons Aloe Gelly ( see: http://www.foreveraloe.ws)
1 sachet vegetable gelatine
50ml distilled extract of which hazel BP
1 white tea teabag
3 drops peppermint essential oil
1) Roughly chop the cucumber.
Add the Aloe and the cucumber into a blender and process until smooth.
Strain the mix through a sieve to extract the juice.
Measure out 100ml of the strained juice and set aside.
2) Add the witch hazel to a pan, whisk in the gelatine and add the teabag.
Gently heat the mixture until it starts to thicken.
As the mixture cools, take out the teabag, then whisk in the cucumber and Aloe mixture
and add the peppermint oil.
3) Bottle up the gel in a sterilized, airtight pump dispenser.
USE:
Apply to the eye area before bed, then wash off in the morning
STORAGE:
Keeps in the fridge for up to six weeks
So, you want to make your own lamp shade…
The good news is that anyone can make a lamp shade – in a jiffy. There is no bad news, so let’s get started.
The easiest (and most common) lamp shade is the conical “empire” shade. You can make the conical structure yourself by purchasing a shade frame or use the structure of an old lamp shade.
You will need:
* 1 candle-stick lamp
* 1 metal “empire” lampshade frame
* 1/3 – 1/2 yd. of fashion fabric (a tightly woven, non-fraying fabric works best)
* 5 yds. of double-sided satin ribbon, 2″ wide * Approx.10 yards of bias tape, (in matching colour) unfolded and pressed open
* Topstitch thread (in matching colour) * Coordinating thread * SoboTM fabric adhesive
* Straight pins
HOW TO MAKE A LAMP SHADE
1. Make the Ruched Satin Trim zigFold the cut end of the satin ribbon at a 45° angle and press. Follow this foldline with a hand-sewn evenly spaced running stitch in a zig-zag pattern. Use the topstitch thread to make the running stitches. Draw up on the running stitches to create the ruched trimming. Make enough trim to go around the circular top and bottom of the shade frame.
2. Tape the Shade Frame prod_1569_empire The first thing you’ll need is cotton bias tape in a colour that will match the colour scheme you have in mind for the final lamp shade. Press the bias tape open flat. Wrap the cotton tape around each strut (the metal bars that make up the lamp shade structure) and around the rings at the top and bottom. You’ll eventually sew your lamp shade to that, so make sure your cotton tape is wrapped tight. Use the fabric glue to tack the ends of the tape together.
3. Measuring for the Shade Cover lampshade-mmtMeasure the height of the lampshade (A) and cut the material 2 inches longer. [50 mm] Measure the distance around the base of the lamp shade frame (B) (lower circle at the widest point) and cut the material 2 inches wider. [50 mm]
4. Hem the Top and Bottom of Fabric. 32hemming51Turn under ¼” [7 mm] of the top and bottom edge of the fabric and press. Turn these edges under 1″ [25 mm] and press. Machine-stitch the top and bottom hems.
5. Sewing the Shade Cover. Make a French seam by turning the shade fabric wrong sides together and sew the ends together, using a ¼” [7 mm] seam allowance. Press seam open. Trim seam allowance 1/8″ [35 mm] from stitching. Fold the material right side together and press a knife-edge along seam. Sew a ¼” [7mm] seam allowance along pressed seam to encase the seam allowance. Hand-stitch an evenly spaced running stitch along the bottom and the top of the material to shirr the fabric .
6. Draping the Shade Cover. invisible-stitch1Place the material over the structure and gently pull it down until it fits snugly over the lamp shade frame. Pull the running stitches and draw around the top and bottom of the frame. Now sew the pleated fabric to the cotton tape that you’ve wrapped around the lamp shade frame. Do this by hand using a blind stitch.
7. Finishing the Lampshade. Now all that remains is the finishing touches to your lamp shade. Attach the satin ruched trim around the top and base of the lampshade by gluing it in place over the stitching. Use straight pins to hold the trim in place while the glue dries. This will give your new lamp shade a finished look.
NOTE: Take care with the colour selection. A good choice here can turn a good lamp shade into an exquisite lamp shade. Consider using a contrasting colour.
Thank You WD